PENNE AL TONNO

PENNE WITH TUNA SAUCE

Ciao, Ciao!

I’ve been off the radar screen for awhile…but good things in the works. In the meantime, I was asked to share a recipe that also happens to piggyback on my last post. The subject is jarred tuna fillets in olive oil. The label might read light tuna, white tuna, Ventresca, Bonito del Norte, depends on the brand.

These are small, whole fillets of tender tuna that are not destined to be shredded and mixed with mayo for a tuna sandwich! Instead, try them as a bruschetta topping (last post), an ingredient in Salade Niçoise, or in this family-favorite, easy pasta. 

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced

3 large garlic cloves, minced

Pinch crushed red pepper (or to taste)

2 tablespoons non-pareil capers, rinsed

1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes, drained (or use fresh, peeled ripe tomatoes in season)

1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley

1 jar tuna fillets (about 7 ounces) in olive oil, drained

1 pound penne pasta

Salt and pepper

Pulse tomatoes in a blender until coarsely chopped. Heat oil in a skillet on medium-low. Add onion, garlic, red pepper, capers and a pinch of salt. Cook about 3 minutes to soften onion. Add tomato and season with salt and pepper. Simmer about 20 minutes. Add parsley and tuna fillets, gently breaking them into smaller pieces.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Scoop out 1 cup pasta water before draining. Drain pasta then transfer to the skillet. Toss with the sauce, adding some of the reserved pasta water, if needed to moisten.

BUON APPETITO!

THE BEST BRUSCHETTA

Bruschetta is so easy it hardly warrants a recipe, but this one comes with a story. I recently returned from an immersive and glorious three weeks in Italy. Part of that time was spent on the island of Ischia, in the Bay of Naples, where we've rented the same house many times over the past 20 years. Last year some of us (not me) made the steep 3 kilometer trek to the top of Mount Epomeo. Upon arrival they discovered a family-run restaurant that serves "the best bruschetta in the world," according to my family and several reliable sources, touted by some as reason enough to make the treacherous hike to the top. Here it is.

This year they couldn't wait to go back, and while I didn't relish the thought of that grueling climb, how could I possibly not take up the challenge, especially for the "best bruschetta!"

Here's me at the summit with my nephew Mitch.

Then there's the view from the top...

And, here's what we ate - bruschette with tuna, cannellini beans, mozzarella and more!

But that's not all! As is the custom, a complimentary digestivo was offered...Limoncello made with intoxicating Amalfi lemons...

Now that you know the inspiration for this post, on to the recipe. Just one thing. I won't claim that mine, or yours, will taste exactly the same, or be the "best"if not made in Ischia, with tomatoes, bread, cheese etc. that are nothing short of uncompromisingly fresh and hyper-local. It's all about the ingredients! But when the time is right, buy vine-ripened tomatoes in season, and you'll still come pretty close. In bocca al lupo!

Read more about bruschetta in Cooking by Heart, Recipes from Nella's Kitchen. If you don't already have the book there's a link to purchase on the home page of my blog site, nellaskitchen.com.

BRUSCHETTA WITH TOMATOES & TUNA

Quantities are somewhat irrelevant here. As I said in my book, "Work out the proportions to your liking." You can't go wrong. The only thing that makes this different from the classic tomato topping is the addition of tuna and onion. In the summer you'll find bruschetta with tomatoes everywhere in Italy, not just on top of Mount Epomeo!

Bread, a dense sourdough-like loaf cut in 1/2 - 3/4-inch slices (see below)

Garlic, 1 clove halved

Tomatoes (vine-ripened) - any color, shape or size, cut into relatively similar bite-size pieces

Sweet onion, Vidalia or any relatively mild variety, small dice, as much as you like (optional)

Basil leaves, julienne-cut or broken into small pieces

Tuna fillets, jarred in virgin olive oil (the expensive ones) - don't substitute canned

Extra-virgin olive oil (preferably with a peppery finish), lots

Fine or coarse sea salt (I favor coarse but that's me.)

A dense, rustic sourdough works well. I used a whole wheat miche.

• Grill sliced bread until lightly charred on both sides.

• Rub one side of each slice with the cut end of the garlic clove and drizzle with oil.

• Combine tomatoes, onion and basil in a bowl.

• Drizzle generously with oil and season with salt.

• Add tuna fillets (as many as you like) and toss gently.

• Top grilled bread with tomato mixture.

You can let bruschetta sit for awhile while preparing the rest of dinner. The bread tastes even better after it's been saturated with the juices from the topping.

For some, New Year's resolutions are made with the transition into a new year. Mine are often realized when I resurface after another inspiring, soul-searching trip to Italy. This year I resolve to share regularly and more often! Grazie for being part of this community of food lovers, and for supporting my passion. I am truly grateful. Please spread the word.

P.S. - check out the Photo Gallery on my website for updates from my recent trip.

GARLIC SCAPE PASTA ROMAN-STYLE

How to make pasta like a Roman? Often it's about improvising with what's on hand, like aglio, olio e pepperoncino (aka AOP), simply garlic, oil and red pepper flakes, sometimes with tomato, sometimes not. This time I'm using garlic scapes instead of cloves because they're in season and I have a bunch in the refrigerator.

Also, most iconic Roman pastas, like carbonara, cacio e pepe, and amatriciana, call for dried pasta. For this recipe I'm using penne rigate (with ridges), again because that's what I have in the pantry. Easy-peasy, get the picture?

So why all this talk about Roman recipes? Well, if you've read the introduction and chapter openers in my book, Cooking by Heart, you know that Rome is my second home, where many extended family members live...also the city that most inspires my cooking and brings me joy. I'm headed back soon and aspire to return with tempting tidbits and new recipes to share. This is just a taste of what's to come. Alla prossima...Nella

Ok then, let's do this!

AOP PASTA WITH TOMATO

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 anchovies (optional)

6-8 garlic scapes, cut 1/8 -1/4-inch across (or 3 large minced cloves, if scapes not available)

10-12 kalamata olives, quartered (also optional)

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 can (approx. 15 ounces) or 2 cups whole peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

Salt

*3/4 pound (12 ounces) penne rigate (or lisce/smooth)

Pecorino Romano cheese wedge

Heat oil in a saucepan on low. Add anchovies and cook a minute or two, stirring to break them up until they dissolve in the oil. Add the garlic scapes and cook about 2 minutes more until softened. Add the pepper flakes, olives and tomatoes (with their liquid), crushing the tomatoes with your hands into chunky bits before adding them to the pan. Season with salt and simmer 20 minutes.

Meanwhile cook pasta in rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Scoop out and reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Drain, return the pasta to the hot pot, along with the sauce. Toss, adding some of the reserved pasta water, a little at a time to moisten if needed. Serve topped with freshly grated cheese. Serves 3-4.

*I'm often asked why Italians aren't fat if they eat pasta every day? It's all about portion control. Approximately 4 ounces per person is plenty, no abbondanza heaping portions like you would expect to find in the states!