FIORI DI ZUCCA

Fiori di zucca, aka squash flowers, are the edible blossoms of the zucchini plant. From what I've seen they’re enjoying a surge in popularity at farmers’ markets, and tis the season. This recipe brings back cherished memories of eating them for the first time in Rome many years ago, stuffed Roman-style with anchovies and mozzarella. Recently my daughter Alessa and I made them at at food and wine pairing class we co-taught, and they were a HUGE hit! Yes, a bit of work that requires some TLC, but after the first bite no one expressed reservations! Follow Alessa and check out her video post at corkecucina on Instagram.

Enjoy fresh out of the frying pan but be cautious, as the inside will be piping hot!

Refrigerate in a plastic bag no longer than a few days before using.

Twist gently after stuffing to hug and hold in the cheese and anchovy.

Here's the recipe. You can also find it in my book, Cooking by Heart, Recipes from Nella's Kitchen (link on home page.)

STUFFED ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS with MOZZARELLA & ANCHOVY

1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 large egg whites

12 large zucchini blossoms

Block of mozzarella cheese

12 flat fillet anchovies packed in olive oil, rinsed and patted dry

Peanut or vegetable oil for frying

Salt

To make the pastella (batter), whisk the flour, oil, a pinch of salt, and 1 cup cold water together to a smooth, thick consistency. Refrigerate for at least one hour. Before frying, in a clean bowl beat the egg whites to stiff peaks, then gently fold into the batter.

     Meanwhile, carefully remove the stamen from inside the blossoms and gently rinse out any pollen. Place the cleaned blossoms on paper towels to absorb as much excess moisture as possible. Cut mozzarella into 12 1 1/4-inch long x 1/2-inch wide batons. Place one piece each of mozzarella and anchovy inside each blossom. Gently twist the blossoms to hold them closed, as best you can.

     Pour oil to a depth of about 2 inches into a wok or straight sided pan and heat on medium to 375 degrees, until a bit of batter dropped into the oil sizzles immediately on contact. Drag the blossoms, a few at time, through the prepared batter to coat generously and evenly, then immediately and carefully place them in the oil; don’t crowd the pan. (You probably won't use all the pastella.) Repeat with the remaining stuffed blossoms. Fry until puffed, crisp and golden brown on all sides. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the fried blossoms to a paper towel lined platter. Sprinkle lightly with salt, serve immediately.

ROMAN PASTAS

PASTA EVOLUTION - I don't know who to credit for this graphic I once came across on Facebook. It succinctly explains the difference between the classic and ever popular 4 Roman pasta dishes, from Cacio e Pepe to Carbonara, the subject of today's post.

For those who don't speak Italian... Starting from the top, add guanciale (pork jowls) to cheese and pepper (Cacio e Pepe) for Pasta alla Gricia. Add tomato to Gricia and you have Amatriciana. Alternately, add eggs to Gricia and you've made Carbonara. Or, at least I hope you will after reading this post!

April 2025, Al Pompiere, Roma

In my kitchen at home...

There's just one catch. I talk about this in my book, Cooking by Heart, Recipes from Nella's Kitchen, so if you've already read my spiel, bear with me. Get organized and be ready for a quick finish. Also serve immediately. This dish does not reheat well, unless you're ok with scrambled eggs! The creamy texture comes from the emulsification of eggs, cheese, and a bit of starchy pasta water, with the heat of the drained pasta acting as a binder, and nothing more. And, while you might find recipes that include cream, it has no place in traditional Carbonara. Just saying...

PASTA CARBONARA

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

5-6 thick slices center cut lean smoked bacon, cut across 1/2-inch

2 large whole eggs plus 2 yolks

3/4 cup grated Pecorino cheese, plus more to sprinkle on top

1 pound mezzi rigatoni or spaghetti (short cuts or long, both work)

Salt and pepper

Combine oil and bacon in a skillet. Heat on low, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and most of the fat has rendered, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon and set aside, leaving all the fat in the skillet. Combine whole eggs and yolks with cheese and lots of freshly ground pepper in a bowl that's large enough to toss in the pasta. Whisk to blend well.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in rapidly boiling, generously salted water, stirring occasionally until al dente. Just before draining, scoop out about 1 cup of the pasta water and set aside. Warm the bacon fat in the skillet if it isn't already.

Drain the pasta and immediately transfer the pasta to the bowl with the egg mixture, along with the reserved bacon and warm bacon fat. Toss very quickly, adding pasta water, a little at a time to moisten as needed. Sprinkle servings with cheese and serve immediately.

Serves 4-5.

Gilding the lily - I top each serving with a few drops of truffle oil, along with the additional cheese.

ZUCCHINI PASTA

ANOTHER FAMILY-FAVORITE...My mother often made this pasta when dad picked zucchini fresh from our backyard garden. She grew up in Rome, near outdoor markets like Campo dei Fiori, where this heirloom variety, Romanesco zucchini, is abundant in season.

Fast forward, years later, on a work-related research trip to Italy (yes, I know how fortunate I am) our team stopped for lunch at Lo Scoglio, a restaurant on the Amalfi coast, where we ate Spaghetti alla Nerano, a dish the restaurant is famous for. So famous in fact, that Stanley Tucci went there on one of the early episodes of his show, Searching for Italy. He's calls the dish "life changing" and it has become one of his family's favorites as well (or so I've heard).

There is one key difference between the way this dish is prepared at the restaurant and my recipe. At Lo Scoglio the zucchini is fried, which Stanley believes is the key to its success. I slowly sauté the zucchini until meltingly tender and lightly browned. Either way it's molto delizioso!

Also (my opinion) the variety and size of the zucchini you use is what distinguishes this dish. Romanesco zucchini is sweeter and more flavorful, with few, if any seeds, and holds its shape better when cooked. If you can't find Romanesco Zucchini, buy baby zucchini or the smallest you can find.

Spaghetti optional...other shapes and sizes also work.

Hope your family enjoys it too! Now off to the market...

ZUCCHINI PASTA

1/4 cup (or more) extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds VERY small zucchini, sliced across thinly (about 1/8 inch)

3 large garlic cloves, minced

3/4 pound spaghetti

3/4 cup grated Pecorino cheese plus more to pass

A couple leaves of basil, very thinly sliced across

Salt and pepper

Heat oil in a large skillet on medium. When it begins to shimmer, add the zucchini and a generous pinch of salt. Reduce heat, and cook gently, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, until zucchini begins to soften and take on color, about 40 minutes. (Don't try to speed up this process.) Adjust temperature as needed to prevent burning. It will shrink in volume. Add the garlic and cook 1-2 minutes more. Remove from heat until ready to finish.

Cook pasta in boiling, generously salted water. Before draining, scoop out 1 cup of the pasta water and set aside. Drain and transfer cooked pasta to the skillet with the zucchini. Reheat on low, adding about 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Remove skillet from heat and toss in the cheese, a little at a time, until melted. Add more of the hot pasta water, a little at a time, if needed, to keep it moist. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately with a little basil and more cheese sprinkled on top. Serves 3-4.

Note: Stanley might toss in a pat of butter at the end. I don't think it's needed. You decide!