THE BEST BRUSCHETTA

Bruschetta is so easy it hardly warrants a recipe, but this one comes with a story. I recently returned from an immersive and glorious three weeks in Italy. Part of that time was spent on the island of Ischia, in the Bay of Naples, where we've rented the same house many times over the past 20 years. Last year some of us (not me) made the steep 3 kilometer trek to the top of Mount Epomeo. Upon arrival they discovered a family-run restaurant that serves "the best bruschetta in the world," according to my family and several reliable sources, touted by some as reason enough to make the treacherous hike to the top. Here it is.

This year they couldn't wait to go back, and while I didn't relish the thought of that grueling climb, how could I possibly not take up the challenge, especially for the "best bruschetta!"

Here's me at the summit with my nephew Mitch.

Then there's the view from the top...

And, here's what we ate - bruschette with tuna, cannellini beans, mozzarella and more!

But that's not all! As is the custom, a complimentary digestivo was offered...Limoncello made with intoxicating Amalfi lemons...

Now that you know the inspiration for this post, on to the recipe. Just one thing. I won't claim that mine, or yours, will taste exactly the same, or be the "best"if not made in Ischia, with tomatoes, bread, cheese etc. that are nothing short of uncompromisingly fresh and hyper-local. It's all about the ingredients! But when the time is right, buy vine-ripened tomatoes in season, and you'll still come pretty close. In bocca al lupo!

Read more about bruschetta in Cooking by Heart, Recipes from Nella's Kitchen. If you don't already have the book there's a link to purchase on the home page of my blog site, nellaskitchen.com.

BRUSCHETTA WITH TOMATOES & TUNA

Quantities are somewhat irrelevant here. As I said in my book, "Work out the proportions to your liking." You can't go wrong. The only thing that makes this different from the classic tomato topping is the addition of tuna and onion. In the summer you'll find bruschetta with tomatoes everywhere in Italy, not just on top of Mount Epomeo!

Bread, a dense sourdough-like loaf cut in 1/2 - 3/4-inch slices (see below)

Garlic, 1 clove halved

Tomatoes (vine-ripened) - any color, shape or size, cut into relatively similar bite-size pieces

Sweet onion, Vidalia or any relatively mild variety, small dice, as much as you like (optional)

Basil leaves, julienne-cut or broken into small pieces

Tuna fillets, jarred in virgin olive oil (the expensive ones) - don't substitute canned

Extra-virgin olive oil (preferably with a peppery finish), lots

Fine or coarse sea salt (I favor coarse but that's me.)

A dense, rustic sourdough works well. I used a whole wheat miche.

• Grill sliced bread until lightly charred on both sides.

• Rub one side of each slice with the cut end of the garlic clove and drizzle with oil.

• Combine tomatoes, onion and basil in a bowl.

• Drizzle generously with oil and season with salt.

• Add tuna fillets (as many as you like) and toss gently.

• Top grilled bread with tomato mixture.

You can let bruschetta sit for awhile while preparing the rest of dinner. The bread tastes even better after it's been saturated with the juices from the topping.

For some, New Year's resolutions are made with the transition into a new year. Mine are often realized when I resurface after another inspiring, soul-searching trip to Italy. This year I resolve to share regularly and more often! Grazie for being part of this community of food lovers, and for supporting my passion. I am truly grateful. Please spread the word.

P.S. - check out the Photo Gallery on my website for updates from my recent trip.

GARLIC SCAPE PASTA ROMAN-STYLE

How to make pasta like a Roman? Often it's about improvising with what's on hand, like aglio, olio e pepperoncino (aka AOP), simply garlic, oil and red pepper flakes, sometimes with tomato, sometimes not. This time I'm using garlic scapes instead of cloves because they're in season and I have a bunch in the refrigerator.

Also, most iconic Roman pastas, like carbonara, cacio e pepe, and amatriciana, call for dried pasta. For this recipe I'm using penne rigate (with ridges), again because that's what I have in the pantry. Easy-peasy, get the picture?

So why all this talk about Roman recipes? Well, if you've read the introduction and chapter openers in my book, Cooking by Heart, you know that Rome is my second home, where many extended family members live...also the city that most inspires my cooking and brings me joy. I'm headed back soon and aspire to return with tempting tidbits and new recipes to share. This is just a taste of what's to come. Alla prossima...Nella

Ok then, let's do this!

AOP PASTA WITH TOMATO

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 anchovies (optional)

6-8 garlic scapes, cut 1/8 -1/4-inch across (or 3 large minced cloves, if scapes not available)

10-12 kalamata olives, quartered (also optional)

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 can (approx. 15 ounces) or 2 cups whole peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

Salt

*3/4 pound (12 ounces) penne rigate (or lisce/smooth)

Pecorino Romano cheese wedge

Heat oil in a saucepan on low. Add anchovies and cook a minute or two, stirring to break them up until they dissolve in the oil. Add the garlic scapes and cook about 2 minutes more until softened. Add the pepper flakes, olives and tomatoes (with their liquid), crushing the tomatoes with your hands into chunky bits before adding them to the pan. Season with salt and simmer 20 minutes.

Meanwhile cook pasta in rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Scoop out and reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Drain, return the pasta to the hot pot, along with the sauce. Toss, adding some of the reserved pasta water, a little at a time to moisten if needed. Serve topped with freshly grated cheese. Serves 3-4.

*I'm often asked why Italians aren't fat if they eat pasta every day? It's all about portion control. Approximately 4 ounces per person is plenty, no abbondanza heaping portions like you would expect to find in the states!

ARTICHOKES ROMAN-STYLE

I have to admit I haven't had much luck finding great artichokes lately. By"great" I mean chokes that are tightly packed (not airy) and feel firm to the touch when squeezed gently, especially around the heart near the stem end. Unfortunately yes, you do need to feel them to be able to tell. Appearances can be deceptive, with artichokes as with people! So lo and behold when I strolled by the display at a local grocer and saw these beauties. I hoped it had come time to enjoy one of my favorite vegetables, finally!

That brings to mind another story that took place years ago, in Verona, Italy on a business trip. While visiting the open market in Piazza delle Erbe, I spotted Tina, The Artichoke Lady of Verona, as she's known, trimming and cleaning artichokes, just as the women in her family had done going back three generations. I turned to my boss at the time and commented, "I know her! I recognize her from the photo in the book The Sensuous Artichoke, sitting on my desk back at the office!" Tina provided an invaluable service, one that undoubtedly prompts more people to buy artichokes, and is commonly seen throughout Italy. By trimming them almost down to their hearts, ready to cook, she eliminated all the messy prep that might otherwise discourage folks at home to prepare them. No such luck here, unless you buy frozen, which are great for certain things, but not this recipe. For Carciofi alla Romana, or any stuffed artichoke recipe for that matter, it's in your hands... but I'm here to offer guidance. Or you can simply steam them whole to serve with a dipping sauce, which is also delicious, but not this recipe. Let's take it one step further...

Prepare the seasoning, consisting mostly of chopped parsley and garlic.

Trim off the stems where they meet the bottom of the artichokes. Trim the stems around the core, which is an extension of the heart; reserve the core to cook with the artichokes.

Snap off a couple layers on the outside of the artichokes to where the petals start looking yellow instead of intensely green. (In Italy they would be trimmed way back to totally yellow, but that's there, not here.) With a paring knife, trim off and discard the dark green part around the bottom.

With a very sharp knife (a serrated bread knife works well) cut off the top third of the artichoke to expose the prickly leaves and fuzzy choke (which you shouldn't eat) in the center. Scoop out and discard this part. I've found that a serrated grapefruit knife helps a lot. The size of that center section and the color of the leaves will vary from white with streaks of pink to a vivid purple color. That's also something you can't tell from looking at the outside of the artichoke. Surprise!

Serrated grapefruit knife...

Stuff the center with the seasoning.

Flip artichokes upside down in a pan, along with the reserved, trimmed stems, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and add a little water (see recipe below). They're ready to cook!

Ready to eat...

ARTICHOKES ROMAN-STYLE

Carciofi alla Romana

2 large artichokes

1 lemon, cut in half around the perimeter

¼ cup chopped parsley

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

With a serrated knife, cut off artichoke stems to create a flat bottom. Cut top thirds off artichokes and discard. Snap off a layer or two of the outermost leaves, and if prickly trim tips with kitchen shears. Rub cut surfaces with half the lemon. Pare away the tough, dark green flesh from the base of the artichokes and trim the stems down to their core. After doing this with each artichoke, drop them into a bowl of cold water with the juice of the other half of the lemon.

In a small bowl combine the parsley, garlic, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoon oil.  Stir to mix. Stuff this mixture into the center of the artichokes. Transfer the artichokes, top sides down, to a pot just large enough to hold them snuggly side-by-side. Drizzle the tops of the artichokes with the remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. Pour 3/4 cup water into the bottom of the pan. Cover, bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer on low about 40 minutes or until a small paring knife easily pierces the heart with no resistance. Uncover and continue to simmer until the remaining liquid has reduced almost to a glaze. Let cool to room temperature. Flip and serve, drizzled with the remaining pan juices.

NOTE: To eat an artichoke, pull off the petals, one at a time, dragging them through your teeth to remove the soft, pulpy portion at the base. As you make your way closer to the inside, the petals will become more tender, with more to enjoy. The heart is totally edible.

OPTION: For stuffed artichokes, add grated Pecorino cheese and breadcrumbs to the seasoning mixture with enough oil to moisten the mixture. Gently spread the leaves of the artichokes without snapping them and distribute the filling between the leaves before transferring them to the pot. Proceed with the recipe as written above.