DELICIOUSLY OFF BRAND?

Italian is my thing, but I don't get hung up on labels. Mostly I cook with whatever fresh ingredients inspire me, especially in the summer, when farmers' markets are literally ripe with possibilities. This week it's locally grown strawberries, the ones that actually taste like strawberries!

This recipe for Strawberry Ricotta Cake really isn't so out of character for me. As I said in my book, "I have a thing for cakes that can double as breakfast..." and this one fits the bill, simple, satisfying, moist, and not cloyingly sweet. The recipe is adapted from Ina Garten's Raspberry-Ricotta Cake and many have riffed on it, including yours truly.

STRAWBERRY RICOTTA CAKE

1 cup whole-milk ricotta

1 1/4 sticks (10 tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup sugar

3 large eggs, room temperature

2 tablespoons sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Zest of 1 lemon

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

9 large strawberries, stems removed, sliced in quarters top to bottom

Scant 1 tablespoon sugar

If your ricotta is watery, place a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh strainer over a bowl. If you don't have cheesecloth, use a coffee filter. Discard any liquid that accumulates in the bowl.

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter the inside of a 9-inch springform pan and line it with a round of parchment paper at the bottom.

Cream together the butter and sugar in a large bowl with a hand mixer. Beat until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating just until blended after each addition. Add the ricotta, sour cream, vanilla, and lemon zest. Mix until combined.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the dry ingredients in three parts, mixing just until combined after each addition. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and smooth out the top.

Arrange the strawberries on top of the batter, slightly pressing the berries into the batter. If you push them in too far (like I did in the photo above), the batter will rise up around them and they won't be visible until you cut into the cake. However, this isn't a deal breaker. It will still taste delicious.

Bake until the cake is golden brown, about 55 minutes. The cake is done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan before removing the sides of the springform.

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